When an 8-foot swell hit Hawaii’s Oahu we tracked its movements in various directions and finally zeroed in on a remote atoll many, many miles from the densely populated line-ups of the famed North Shore.
Isolated, stinking hot and with limited entertainment other than breathing, there was really only one man we knew who could not only handle the pace (or lack thereof) and enjoy it.
Enter Malibu’s Dillon Perillo. Part vagabond, part bon vivant – he was only too happy to put himself on a solo journey into the furnace and find … well… nothing really!
“This is something that not many people get to do anymore. There’s always a chance for new surf with all the seismic activity around the earth and with those changes there’s always going to be new places appearing and old places disappearing and this might be just mid-way through.” – Dillon Perillo